Replacing front wheel

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Replacing front wheel

Dave Davenport
  Well I've about reached the conclusion that I need to remove the
front wheel and replace the Dunlop D220. It has worn to a couple of
bald spots on it. In the past I've always had the Dealer do this, but
everytime I've checked lately, He's been to busy( small shop with only
two mechanics). In looking at the process in my Haynes manuel It looks
pretty simple, however two things I will apparently need is 1. a proper
torque wrench and 2. somthing to hold up the front wheel during this
process. I assume with the bike on the center stand, I can just buts
some wood blocks under engine and that should hold it up enough to
slide the loosened front wheel off? The Torque wrench is the next
problem. I assume it must be very important to have the correct torque
on the axel bolts. The Haynes manuel list the torque in NM while her in
California, I've only seen some with FT./lbs rating. I guess there is
probably a way to convert the different scale but would be easier to
find one already that scale. Any suggestions from somebody who does
this there selves? I know its not much of a job for most, but I'm not
much of a mechanic either! Thanks for all the help! Merry Christmas!
Dave 96'1200






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RE: Replacing front wheel

b25bsaboy
Dave,

Get your calculator out and multiply the recorded nM times 1.38273 and that
gives you your ft/lbs.

Rick MacPherson

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]]On Behalf Of Dave Davenport
Sent: December 26, 2005 9:21 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Replacing front wheel


  Well I've about reached the conclusion that I need to remove the
front wheel and replace the Dunlop D220. It has worn to a couple of
bald spots on it. In the past I've always had the Dealer do this, but
everytime I've checked lately, He's been to busy( small shop with only
two mechanics). In looking at the process in my Haynes manuel It looks
pretty simple, however two things I will apparently need is 1. a proper
torque wrench and 2. somthing to hold up the front wheel during this
process. I assume with the bike on the center stand, I can just buts
some wood blocks under engine and that should hold it up enough to
slide the loosened front wheel off? The Torque wrench is the next
problem. I assume it must be very important to have the correct torque
on the axel bolts. The Haynes manuel list the torque in NM while her in
California, I've only seen some with FT./lbs rating. I guess there is
probably a way to convert the different scale but would be easier to
find one already that scale. Any suggestions from somebody who does
this there selves? I know its not much of a job for most, but I'm not
much of a mechanic either! Thanks for all the help! Merry Christmas!
Dave 96'1200







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Re: Replacing front wheel

Phil Smith
In reply to this post by Dave Davenport
Since you have the manual, go to:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ 

and look under pressures
pencil in the converted numbers

1 newton/square meter = 0.671969 pounds/square foot

Phil

>   Well I've about reached the conclusion that I need to remove the
> front wheel and replace the Dunlop D220. It has worn to a couple
of
> bald spots on it. In the past I've always had the Dealer do this,
but
> everytime I've checked lately, He's been to busy( small shop with
only
> two mechanics). In looking at the process in my Haynes manuel It
looks
> pretty simple, however two things I will apparently need is 1. a
proper
> torque wrench and 2. somthing to hold up the front wheel during
this
> process. I assume with the bike on the center stand, I can just
buts
> some wood blocks under engine and that should hold it up enough to
> slide the loosened front wheel off? The Torque wrench is the next
> problem. I assume it must be very important to have the correct
torque
> on the axel bolts. The Haynes manuel list the torque in NM while
her in
> California, I've only seen some with FT./lbs rating. I guess there
is
> probably a way to convert the different scale but would be easier
to
> find one already that scale. Any suggestions from somebody who
does
> this there selves? I know its not much of a job for most, but I'm
not
> much of a mechanic either! Thanks for all the help! Merry
Christmas!
> Dave 96'1200
>






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Re: Replacing front wheel

Ken Hastie
In reply to this post by Dave Davenport
On 26 Dec 2005 at 16:21, Dave Davenport wrote:

>   Well I've about reached the conclusion that I need to remove the
> front wheel and replace the Dunlop D220.

<snip>

It looks
> pretty simple, however two things I will apparently need is 1. a
> proper torque wrench and 2. somthing to hold up the front wheel during
> this process.

I have a torque wrench but don't use it for this job.  Common sense/my elbow tells
me.  However, I have been wrenching bikes a long time (and have experienced the
odd snapped bolt 8:)

I place timber (small enough to fit into the gap between the fairing base) on top of a
hydraulic lift to support the bike.  I have removed both wheels at the same time this
way (leaving the centre stand down of course).

Ken the Geordie                           e-mail:[hidden email]
BSA A75R, A10GF, B40, WDB40, D7, D10, D14, Trophy 1200



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RE: Re: Replacing front wheel

xs1100g
In reply to this post by Phil Smith
Phil,

 

I think you clicked on the wrong one, he need torque, not pressure.

 

1 Newton Meter = .7375 foot/lbs.

 

Common torque values for the Trophy (at least my 2000)

 

Front Axle - 44 ft/lbs

Front axel pinch bolts -  15 ft/lbs (177 inch/lbs)

Front calipers - 30 ft lbs

 

Rear axel - 63 ft/lbs

Rear pinch bolts - 26 ft/lbs

 

Oil filter drain plug - 21 ft/lbs (252 inch/lbs)

Oil filter bolt - 13 ft/lbs (156 inch/lbs)

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]]
On Behalf Of Phil Smith
Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 12:53 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Replacing front wheel

 

Since you have the manual, go to:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/ 

and look under pressures
pencil in the converted numbers

1 newton/square meter = 0.671969 pounds/square foot

Phil




  _____  



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Re: Replacing front wheel

dand9
In reply to this post by Dave Davenport
Northern Tool
<http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTELargeImageView?rfno=200306251&storeId=6970>

Dave ,
  Here's one place to get a combo torque wrench. In the additional
images it shows there are two scales displaying both and it's a
reasonable price.,.


Dave Davenport wrote:

>   Well I've about reached the conclusion that I need to remove the
> front wheel and replace the Dunlop D220. It has worn to a couple of
> bald spots on it. In the past I've always had the Dealer do this, but
> everytime I've checked lately, He's been to busy( small shop with only
> two mechanics). In looking at the process in my Haynes manuel It looks
> pretty simple, however two things I will apparently need is 1. a proper
> torque wrench and 2. somthing to hold up the front wheel during this
> process. I assume with the bike on the center stand, I can just buts
> some wood blocks under engine and that should hold it up enough to
> slide the loosened front wheel off? The Torque wrench is the next
> problem. I assume it must be very important to have the correct torque
> on the axel bolts. The Haynes manuel list the torque in NM while her in
> California, I've only seen some with FT./lbs rating. I guess there is
> probably a way to convert the different scale but would be easier to
> find one already that scale. Any suggestions from somebody who does
> this there selves? I know its not much of a job for most, but I'm not
> much of a mechanic either! Thanks for all the help! Merry Christmas!
> Dave 96'1200
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please remember that all opinions, suggestions, data citations &
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Re: Replacing front wheel

John Arthur
In reply to this post by Dave Davenport
Ken Hastie wrote:

>I place timber (small enough to fit into the gap between the fairing base)
>on top of a
>hydraulic lift to support the bike.  I have removed both wheels at the same
>time this
>way (leaving the centre stand down of course).

I used to use this method on my old 1991 Trophy 1200 and it worked fine. I
tried this without thinking on my 2003 Trophy 1200 that replaced it and I
was just able to stop before the bike fell sideways while the front wheel
was still firmly on the ground.  Looking underneath the sump seems slightly
asymmetrical and this could be the problem but now I use a hoist from a
handy girder to raise the front by looping a rope around the headstock (tank
off first).  Anybody else had this problem with the later Trophies and got
another solution or am I doing something wrong?

John Arthur




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Re: Re: Replacing front wheel

dand9
I found it easiest to do one at a time. On the stand for the rear and I
bought a Pit Bull stand for the front.
Denny

John Arthur wrote:

> Ken Hastie wrote:
>
> >I place timber (small enough to fit into the gap between the fairing
> base)
> >on top of a
> >hydraulic lift to support the bike.  I have removed both wheels at
> the same
> >time this
> >way (leaving the centre stand down of course).
>




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Re: Replacing front wheel

Steve Wassenich
In reply to this post by Phil Smith
Phil Smith wrote:

> Since you have the manual, go to:
>
> http://www.onlineconversion.com/
>
> and look under pressures

Or if you have a Mac with OSX, use the calculator:  Punch in the
number, go to Convert, then Energy or Work and select the appropriate
units of measurement.

Steve W.



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Re: Replacing front wheel

Tom D.
In reply to this post by Ken Hastie
--- In [hidden email], "Ken Hastie" <ken@h...> wrote:
>

> Ken the Geordie                           e-mail:ken@h...
> BSA A75R, A10GF, B40, WDB40, D7, D10, D14, Trophy 1200
>

Ken,
       Can you oblige and tell me what the following acronyms mean?
A10GF
B40
WDB40
D7
D10
D14
Regards
Tom D.







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Re: Replacing front wheel

Tom D.
In reply to this post by xs1100g
--- In [hidden email], "xs1100g" <xs1100g@t...> wrote:

>
> Phil,
>
>  
>
> I think you clicked on the wrong one, he need torque, not pressure.
>
>  
>
> 1 Newton Meter = .7375 foot/lbs.
>
>  
>
> Common torque values for the Trophy (at least my 2000)
>
>  
>
> Front Axle - 44 ft/lbs
>
> Front axel pinch bolts -  15 ft/lbs (177 inch/lbs)
>
> Front calipers - 30 ft lbs
>
>  
>
> Rear axel - 63 ft/lbs
>
> Rear pinch bolts - 26 ft/lbs
>
>  
>
> Oil filter drain plug - 21 ft/lbs (252 inch/lbs)
>
> Oil filter bolt - 13 ft/lbs (156 inch/lbs)
>
>  

Gary,
     Once again, your are one step ahead of most of us...
Tom D.
PS: Think Americade!





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Re: Replacing front wheel

Tom D.
In reply to this post by dand9
--- In [hidden email], Denny <dand9@c...> wrote:
>
> I found it easiest to do one at a time. On the stand for the rear and I
> bought a Pit Bull stand for the front.
> Denny


Me too!
       The "New Stand" with the long adjustable "#4 pin". Works as
advertised and should be considered an investment because it will work
with many different applications.
Click below.
Tom D.

http://www.pit-bull.com







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Re: Replacing front wheel

Tony D.
I've been using a friend's Lockhart-Phillips front stand that he got
for $89 (ncludes 4 pins) from.....

<a href="http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=L213%">http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=L213%
2D510&gift=False&HSLB=False&mscssid=D71044F818B3482B8AA8C8D44474F2D8

It works perfectly on the Trophy where it doesn't lift the front up
too far causing the rear wheel to hit not allowing removal of both
wheels as I just did to get new rubber mounted.

Tony D.  '01 1200









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Re: Re: Replacing front wheel

Ken Hastie
In reply to this post by Tom D.
On 27 Dec 2005 at 2:17, Tom wrote:

> --- In [hidden email], "Ken Hastie" <ken@h...> wrote: >
>
> > Ken the Geordie                           e-mail:ken@h...
> > BSA A75R, A10GF, B40, WDB40, D7, D10, D14, Trophy 1200
> >
>
> Ken,
>        Can you oblige and tell me what the following acronyms mean?
> A10GF B40 WDB40 D7 D10 D14 Regards Tom D.

Well, the clue is in the bit you removed: "BSA".  They are all model numbers of BSA
bikes I own.

1969 A75R Rocket Three Triple
1960 A10 Golden Flash 650cc twin
1962 B40 350cc single Civilian model
196? B40 350cc single War Department model (First registered 1974)
1969 D14 Bantam 175cc
1968 D10 Bantam 175cc
1967 D7 Bantam 175cc
I decided I had too many bikes and not enough time, so sold the A65 Thuderbolt this
year.  I still need to cut down !

I hardly use the Trophy by comparison to the above bikes.  I have travelled pretty
much all over Europe on the Rocket Three and the Golden Flash (including two trips
to Rome)

I also have an MGB Roadster, which is my four wheeled version of Brit-iron

Ken the Geordie







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Re: Re: Replacing front wheel

Ken Hastie
In reply to this post by dand9
On 26 Dec 2005 at 18:27, Denny wrote:

> I found it easiest to do one at a time. On the stand for the rear and
> I bought a Pit Bull stand for the front. Denny

Well, of course you are right.  But it then means two trips to the tyre dealer.

Ken the Geordie




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Re: Replacing front wheel

Phil Smith
In reply to this post by xs1100g
You are right.
I just use the converter occasionally and the convertion is in my
palm T3.
My bad.  good catch.

phil



> I think you clicked on the wrong one, he need torque, not pressure.
>
>  
>
> 1 Newton Meter = .7375 foot/lbs.
>
>  
>
> Common torque values for the Trophy (at least my 2000)
>
>  
>
> Front Axle - 44 ft/lbs
>
> Front axel pinch bolts -  15 ft/lbs (177 inch/lbs)
>
> Front calipers - 30 ft lbs
>
>  
>
> Rear axel - 63 ft/lbs
>
> Rear pinch bolts - 26 ft/lbs
>
>  
>
> Oil filter drain plug - 21 ft/lbs (252 inch/lbs)
>
> Oil filter bolt - 13 ft/lbs (156 inch/lbs)
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]]

> On Behalf Of Phil Smith
> Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 12:53 PM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Replacing front wheel
>
>  
>
> Since you have the manual, go to:
>
> http://www.onlineconversion.com/ 
>
> and look under pressures
> pencil in the converted numbers
>
> 1 newton/square meter = 0.671969 pounds/square foot
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>   _____  
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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Re: Replacing front wheel

John Parmer
In reply to this post by dand9
Caveat Emptor!  Just be sure you're on the correct setting when using
torque wrenches with both versions (nM and ft/lb) because ft/lb is more
than nM and you might do some damage.  I found a good one at Sears.  
I'm sure they have them in California.

- JP






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