Re: Digest Number 8239

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Re: Digest Number 8239

JackM-2
I ran into the opposite problem on my 2001 triple. The lights would intermittently cut out, briefly, while riding. The low and high beam each has its own relay, plus the "dip" relay that cuts the headlights while cranking.Samuel is right on, just find those relays, replace them, but invert them so the tabs are facing down, and get back to riding. Jack MartinPlacerville, .CA(Hangtown USA)

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 4 Messages
  Digest #8239            1.1    Electrical question   by "Stephen Johnson" gluman3        1.2    Re: Electrical question   by thdm2001        1.3    Re: Electrical question   by "Samuel Crider" black524td        1.4    Re: Electrical question   by "Jack Byers" poppajack1200          
 
   
 Messages
   
 1.1
 
   Electrical question  
     
 Sun Nov 19, 2017 7:57 pm (PST) . Posted by:
 
   "Stephen Johnson" gluman3  
     I am working on a 2001 Trophy 1200 which is difficult to start when cold.
I noticed when pressing the starter button the headlights stay on rather
than cut off like they should to assure enough voltage is available to
produce a strong spark from the coils. Have any members of this group seen
this issue before and know which relay I should be looking at that might be
causing this ?

Thanks for your help,

Steve

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 1.2
 
   Re: Electrical question  
     
 Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:32 pm (PST) . Posted by:
 
   thdm2001  
     I have a 2002 1200 trophy and the lights are supposed to be on when the ignition key is in the on or start position. The problem with mine, was that it would crank over but not start unless the battery was fully charged. This was a problem until I switched out the battery for a lithium battery. Haven't had a problem since.             Reply to sender     .     Reply to group     .     Reply via Web Post     .     All Messages (30)     .    Top ^          
 1.3
 
   Re: Electrical question  
     
 Mon Nov 20, 2017 1:59 pm (PST) . Posted by:
 
   "Samuel Crider" black524td  
     Hi Stephen,

It is one of the cube relays up under the nose. You will likely find them
mounted upside down. Which causes the plastic outer cover to internally
collect water. Causing major corrosion issues with the relays and the
igniter. At least that was the case on my 96 model. So my advice is to hang
them all with the mounting tabs facing up. I strung a horizonal plastic
rope so they could all float. Instead of being physically screwed down.
Which is more friendly on the wiring. You will likely find corrosion issues
in the relay as well as the socket. Usually the relay can be cleaned up and
resoldered. The socket may require replacement. I ended up IDing mine with
a silver permanent marker once I figured out what they go to. That way you
can see it when peering under to nose.

Hope this helps.

Best wishes,
Samuel
96 BBBB PB
NOLA

On Nov 20, 2017 2:32 PM, "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> I have a 2002 1200 trophy and the lights are supposed to be on when the
> ignition key is in the on or start position. The problem with mine, was
> that it would crank over but not start unless the battery was fully
> charged. This was a problem until I switched out the battery for a lithium
> battery. Haven't had a problem since.
>
>
>
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 1.4
 
   Re: Electrical question  
     
 Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:49 pm (PST) . Posted by:
 
   "Jack Byers" poppajack1200  
     Hey Steve! I have a 1995 Trophy 1200, I bought new, and found myself in the very same quandary as you. We have a law that says our head, and tail light, must be visible for a long distance. ( ?), here in Cal. Personally, I think it is a very good idea myself. One small tail-lite in your, hard working sentence, makes you ready for bed, mostly right after work. We try to do our best to stay alive, healthy, and in the wind. I think on the more recent models, there is a "Load Drop Relay", that takes the lights and starter not related. I spent the better part of a day figuring out what I had to do to get the lights off, and out of the voltage, and amperage draw on startup. I finally came up with a one wire remedy. Then I noticed the wire work, for the 1994 non-US wiring diagram, and it had a "O-N, O-F-F" switch some genius back in the factory, where they still made motorbikes for people with an IQ, higher than 40, and actually tried putting in a "Load-drop-relay" that would shut off the big draw the lites needed. Then they even put a switch in the Rt side switch gear, that would do it for you! What an idea!!!!! I ordered one from England , from a shop that had impressed a few of our members’ trust, on repairs or ???, I called them up, and they were really a breath of fresh air, in the M/C Bizz!!! I had my new switch-gear in just a few days. There was not anything else for me to mess with, and it worked right, right from the box. I put the new switch gear on the handlebars, flipped on the switch, and it all worked perfectly. There was an unexpected gift, what used to be my "Parking lites", now are my daytime day lites, that our overzealous local centers of government (NON-RIDERS ALL!!!), decided this would make life "Special", and like they were making it all up, with no real benefit for riders in their noggins! Ever, this is one of the "Helmet companies", slick Bull shit to require that we are required to buy the helmet. I am a retired aircraft electrician, and I wrestled with this for a lot longer than I needed to. The answer was right in the wiring diagram. In the Euro spec bike, I spotted a basic nondescript switch. I had overlooked it a dozen times, thinking I’d simply rewire a lights out switch. I could shut off my lights to start the engine, on that little tiny battery, and I noticed (Quite by accident!) That the local constabulary couldn’t see me at dark, or even near dark. So I called it my "F-U" switch, and avoided many a little award, by turning off my lights, and getting lost in traffic. Just like on my old H-D Chopper! Then I found that Triumph actually made the switch-work all along. pricey $75.00 + shipped from "Jolly Old", and worth every penny!! Now I can comply with the Cal. Vehicle code, by running my parking lites in the day. I’ve not come out to a weak old battery, and simply turning off all the lights, my bike cranks better than ever. I have had the switch for a few years, and it has paid for itself over, and over again. John Law, hasn’t a clue about it, so my battery is always well charged up when time to ride suddenly arrives! It is the best money I have ever parted with, and it all looks stock as God made it!
 Kindest regards,
 Poppa Jack

> On Nov 19, 2017, at 7:57 PM, Stephen Johnson [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy] <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>
> I am working on a 2001 Trophy 1200 which is difficult to start when cold. I noticed when pressing the starter button the headlights stay on rather than cut off like they should to assure enough voltage is available to produce a strong spark from the coils. Have any members of this group seen this issue before and know which relay I should be looking at that might be causing this ?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Steve
>
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