Popping Exhaust

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Popping Exhaust

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for opinions on these symptoms:
My bike sat for about 3 weeks in January/February and I didn't drain the float bowls.  When I started riding again, I noticed a very rich exhaust smell when stopped at intersections.
Yesterday, I drained the float bowls, briefly primed the carbs, and started the engine.  As expected, it took a little while to get all 4 cylinders running, but not expected was a "thoom...thoom...thoom" popping sound from the exhaust.  The popping occurs at low engine speeds and tapers off or becomes unnoticeable as the engine speed increases.  I'm also getting a very occasional "pfft" backfire through one of the carbs at low engine speeds.  This is more concerning because I don't want to blow out an air filter.  I'm guessing that this happens during the overlap period of the valves if unburned exhaust is igniting in the header. I don't think it's running super-rich any longer, but I'll keep a nose out for this.
My bike did this for a few months after I first bought it, before it got both the #2 carb float and the petcock stuck in open positions and drained the fuel tank into the crankcase and all over the ground.  Since that time, I've de-rusted the fuel tank and installed the missing inline filter screens in the tees between the carbs.
I recently added a USB power port/volt meter.  It feeds off of the input to the Johnson Jolt (original coil power feeds).  It reads 12.5V at idle with low-beams on and 13.8V at 1500RPM+.  I don't think this is a contributor to the problem, but wanted to note it.
My thoughts, and I hope for your comments:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  this would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
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Re: Popping Exhaust

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Update:
On the ride home today, it smelled pretty rich.  I'm going to add another possibility to my list:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.4. Maybe one of the needle and seats is still stuck.  This is a big risk because if needle and seat and also petcock both get stuck open, my bike empties its fuel into the crankcase again.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.
It's sounding like a carb teardown is in my near future.
- Dave

      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: Triumph Trophy Group Group <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 1:03 PM
 Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
   
    Hi everyone,
I'm looking for opinions on these symptoms:
My bike sat for about 3 weeks in January/February and I didn't drain the float bowls.  When I started riding again, I noticed a very rich exhaust smell when stopped at intersections.
Yesterday, I drained the float bowls, briefly primed the carbs, and started the engine.  As expected, it took a little while to get all 4 cylinders running, but not expected was a "thoom...thoom...thoom" popping sound from the exhaust.  The popping occurs at low engine speeds and tapers off or becomes unnoticeable as the engine speed increases.  I'm also getting a very occasional "pfft" backfire through one of the carbs at low engine speeds.  This is more concerning because I don't want to blow out an air filter.  I'm guessing that this happens during the overlap period of the valves if unburned exhaust is igniting in the header. I don't think it's running super-rich any longer, but I'll keep a nose out for this.
My bike did this for a few months after I first bought it, before it got both the #2 carb float and the petcock stuck in open positions and drained the fuel tank into the crankcase and all over the ground.  Since that time, I've de-rusted the fuel tank and installed the missing inline filter screens in the tees between the carbs.
I recently added a USB power port/volt meter.  It feeds off of the input to the Johnson Jolt (original coil power feeds).  It reads 12.5V at idle with low-beams on and 13.8V at 1500RPM+.  I don't think this is a contributor to the problem, but wanted to note it.
My thoughts, and I hope for your comments:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  this would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
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Re: Popping Exhaust

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Update 2: I think I figured out my issue.  
I'll keep you all in suspense for a short bit...
Wednesday evening, I started disassembly during my very limited time window.
1. Remove seat.2. Remove panniers3. Remove rear fairing4. Remove battery5. Remove intake resonators6. Remove the right half of the airbox snorkels (mine has the airbox mod)7. Loosen the clamps on the airbox to carburetor rubbers.8. Remove the left half of the airbox snorkels (I couldn't get the airbox off completely without removing both halves)9. Unbolt the front seat mount bolts.10. Slide the gas tank back, set it up on top of its bayonets, and prop the seat mount up with a block of wood.
I was able to accomplish all of this with the following tools:1. A metric folding pocket allen-key set.2. A short 1/4" & 3/4" double-ended ratchet with a 10mm socket on the 1/4" drive side and a 12mm socket on the 3/8" drive side.3. A long-shaft JIS screwdriver.4. A JIS screwdriver bit (for that middle screw on the airbox).5. A 1/4" box-end wrench (for the screwdriver bit).
I've been storing the allen-keys and ratchet drive in the right fairing pocket.  I think I'm going to look for a way to store everything in a bag under the seat.  I think I have some Z-shaped phillips on one end, flathead on the other end screwdrivers.  I'm going to see if I can swap the bit and box-end for one of these.
Thursday evening, I began work on the bike:
1. Remove the gas tank, 2. Removed the engine heat shields.3. Reinstalled the battery.4. Started the engine to drain gas from the carburetors.
I was able to do all of this work with the same set of tools as before.
First, I checked the spark plug boots and found that each could click down one click on the spark plug threads.I held my thumb over the vacuum line for the fuel tap in order to assist the engine in running smoothly.I heard 2 things:1. The engine was again popping out the exhaust every so-often.2. Pfft-pfft-pfft-pfft-pfft
Looking for the source of the extra sound, I noted that the vacuum cap was missing from my #4 carburetor.  I put my finger over the port and the popping sound reduced, but didn't go completely away.  I covered the port with the vacuum line from carb 2 and the popping came back a little, but not as bad as before.While the engine was running, I used my finger to open and close the carburetor slides, ensuring that they all opened and closed smoothly.  I didn't rev the engine to make sure they opened or closed together, but I can work on that part.  After the engine ran out of fuel and stopped, I pulled the fuel lines off of the tees between the carburetors and cleaned the fuel screens.  They were nearly full.
Here's what I think was happening.
The vacuum cap was missing from carb 4, causing that cylinder to lean out.  I had needed to adjust the idle speed upwards because it was idling down too low due to the missing vacuum cap.  This extra idle speed may have conspired with non-optimal carb tuning for this circumstance to cause one or more of the other carburetors to run rich.  So, I had one carb running lean and the others running rich.  Either way, they were way out of balance.
I was mostly out of time, but I came back to the bike a bit later and dropped the float bowl off of carb #4.  I could do this with the carburetors mounted because when I had them off 2 years ago, I replaced the JIS screws with allen bolts. 
Backing up a bit - the first time I took my carburetors apart, I needed to do a thorough clean and replace of gaskets and O-rings on each carb.  This included the rubber nipples on the ends of the tees that go into each carburetor.  For this reason, I needed to dismount the carbs from their mounting rails.  This forum has recommended that you don't dismount from the rails unless necessary, and if you do, be careful to catch and reinstall the springs and other parts that make up parts of the carburetor linkage.  I'll do a leak test on the carbs again before buttoning things back up.
Back to my work.  With the float bowl off, I could see a fine paste inside the bottom of the float bowl where the main jet draws gas, so I took a Q-tip and some carburetor cleaner to clean the float bowl.  
Next, I dropped the float assembly out the bottom, gently separated the floats from the body of the assembly so I could remove the needle.  Needle inspection revealed no obvious issues.
I took a flathead bit and my box-end wrench and removed the main jet to check it out.  No issues there.  If I had wanted to, I could have then removed the carb top, removed the emulsion tube, and ensured that it was also clean.  I didn't have any concerns about this part, so I left it.
I gently re-assembled the float assemblies, squirted the o-rings with WD-40 and re-installed the float assembly in the carburetor.
Finally, I bolted the float bowl back in-place.
Carburetor 4 complete.
I did carb 4 first because it's the easiest to access.  
Additional tools used.1. An individual allen-wrench to remove the float bowl screws.  This will need to be added to my kit.2. A flathead bit.  I think I can get away with the Z-shaped driver, but will need to confirm.3. An inspection mirror to look at the underside of the carburetor.
This was surprisingly easy and required only a few tools.  The airbox mod was by-far the biggest assistance in my efforts.
A note on my airbox mod.  Some people perform the mod and cover it with tape or some type of sealer.  I haven't done this.  I can see a line of dust on my air filter element where the mod was performed.  I wonder if it's time to clean the air filter element while I have it off.
Next steps:1. Remove and clean the float bowls and float assemblies on the other carbs.  Carb 1 will be the most difficult because of the idle speed adjuster.  I think I can manage this, though.2. Remove and inspect the spark plugs.  Replace any that appear to be fouled.3. Maybe clean the air filter.4. Perform a leak test on the carburetors.5. Reinstall the front airbox half on the carburetors to have the air horns in-place.6. Run the engine at varying speeds and confirm that the carburetor slides move together.
If all goes well, re-assemble the bike using the tools that will become my ride kit on Saturday and see how it shakes out.  Maybe go for a long ride on Sunday.
- Dave


      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 4:50 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
   
    Update:
On the ride home today, it smelled pretty rich.  I'm going to add another possibility to my list:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.4. Maybe one of the needle and seats is still stuck.  This is a big risk because if needle and seat and also petcock both get stuck open, my bike empties its fuel into the crankcase again.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.
It's sounding like a carb teardown is in my near future.
- Dave

      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: Triumph Trophy Group Group <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 1:03 PM
 Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Hi everyone,
I'm looking for opinions on these symptoms:
My bike sat for about 3 weeks in January/February and I didn't drain the float bowls.  When I started riding again, I noticed a very rich exhaust smell when stopped at intersections.
Yesterday, I drained the float bowls, briefly primed the carbs, and started the engine.  As expected, it took a little while to get all 4 cylinders running, but not expected was a "thoom...thoom...thoom" popping sound from the exhaust.  The popping occurs at low engine speeds and tapers off or becomes unnoticeable as the engine speed increases.  I'm also getting a very occasional "pfft" backfire through one of the carbs at low engine speeds.  This is more concerning because I don't want to blow out an air filter.  I'm guessing that this happens during the overlap period of the valves if unburned exhaust is igniting in the header. I don't think it's running super-rich any longer, but I'll keep a nose out for this.
My bike did this for a few months after I first bought it, before it got both the #2 carb float and the petcock stuck in open positions and drained the fuel tank into the crank! case and all over the ground.  Since that time, I've de-rusted the fuel tank and installed the missing inline filter screens in the tees between the carbs.
I recently added a USB power port/volt meter.  It feeds off of the input to the Johnson Jolt (original coil power feeds).  It reads 12.5V at idle with low-beams on and 13.8V at 1500RPM+.  I don't think this is a contributor to the problem, but wanted to note it.
My thoughts, and I hope for your comments:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  this would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
 

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Re: Popping Exhaust

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Update 3: Back together.
This morning, I resumed work with carb 3.  On all the remaining carbs, I removed and cleaned the float bowl, removed and ensured that the needle and seat were clear, and removed and cleared the main jet.  No issues found.  I also trimmed 1/3 off of the long end of one of my 4mm allen wrenches in order to be able to use it in both directions.  I found my missing vacuum cap underneath carb 3, sitting on top of the crankcase.
Carb 2 was the most difficult.  The mounting rail screw is very close to the front float bowl screw.  Guess who removed the wrong screw?  It's also quite a challenge to get in there with a shorty allen wrench to access that bolt.  On re-assembly, I used my long 4mm allen and it was much better.
Carb 1 was only challenging to get the idle adjuster off before dropping the float bowl.  On second-guess, I think I'd try next time to remove the idle adjuster after removing the float bowl and see if it's easier.
All of this was possible because I replaced the whole set of JIS screws with allen screws.  If you still have JIS screws on your carbs, you would have needed to remove the set.
Spark plugs next:
Plugs 1,3, and 4 appeared a bit gray instead of tan.  I'm not sure about this. Does this mean they were running lean?Plug 2 was gray, but had a fouled streak opposite the ground electrode.  It was clearly the one that wasn't running right.
While checking the plugs, I performed a leak test on the carbs and observed no issues.
After all was back together, I started the engine and immediately noticed popping out the exhaust and periodic backfires through carb 2.  I checked the plug boot to make sure it was down all the way. Then I noticed that the other boot on the coil looked loose.  Once I re-seated it, the bike ran normally.
I put everything back together and it's ready to ride.  The combination screwdriver worked well for that center lower screw on the airbox.
Casualties:1. Some dummy (me) put downward pressure on the rear edge of the right dash panel.  Pop!  I got out the soldering iron and welded that tab back on.  It looked like someone had tried to super-glue it back on.  I also tried to fix the gas-tank tab on the rear fairing, but it's too far gone.
2. I kept smelling raw gasoline.  When I started this morning, I noticed a slick of semi-gasoline underneath the fuel tap side of the gas tank where it sat in my garage.  This told me that the fuel tap wasn't closing correctly, so I took hold of the knob, and it was a bit stuck.  I bit more leverage, and pop, it turned freely.  I removed the knob and it came out in 3 pieces.  I may be buying an aluminum knob soon, but before that, I put the pieces back together with JB-Weld and filled the gap on the inside of the knob where the pieces broke away into. My idea is that if that bit is filled-in, it's less likely to give-way.  I'll wait for the JB-Weld to set and then I'll have something I can use.  
Tools that are now in a bag in my pannier:
2 4mm allen wrenches (for my allen screws on the carbs)1 folding allen key set (to remove allen-head screws in the bodywork)1 dual-sided ratchet (1/4" and 3/8") to operate the sockets1 10mm socket (to remove the fuel tank)1 12mm socket (to remove the grab handles)1 18mm spark plug socket (to remove the spark plugs)1 120mm 3/8" socket extension (to remove the spark plugs)1 inspection mirror (for looking at the undersides of the carburetors)
1 combination screw-driver ( for the bottom airbox screw and the main jets)1 ultra-long JIS screwdriver (for the airbox screws)1 long-shaft flathead screwdriver (for the airbox rubber clamps)1 1/4" box-end wrench to work with screwdriver bits.1 T30 bit for the dash panel fairing screws.
I also added 1 pair of needle-nose pliers in the dash pocket (until the fuel selector knob is back on)

I'm tempted to replace the dash panel fairing screws with allen just to eliminate the need for Torx tools.
Time to ride.
- Dave
      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Friday, March 17, 2017 10:31 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
   
    Update 2: I think I figured out my issue.  
I'll keep you all in suspense for a short bit...
Wednesday evening, I started disassembly during my very limited time window.
1. Remove seat.2. Remove panniers3. Remove rear fairing4. Remove battery5. Remove intake resonators6. Remove the right half of the airbox snorkels (mine has the airbox mod)7. Loosen the clamps on the airbox to carburetor rubbers.8. Remove the left half of the airbox snorkels (I couldn't get the airbox off completely without removing both halves)9. Unbolt the front seat mount bolts.10. Slide the gas tank back, set it up on top of its bayonets, and prop the seat mount up with a block of wood.
I was able to accomplish all of this with the following tools:1. A metric folding pocket allen-key set.2. A short 1/4" & 3/4" double-ended ratchet with a 10mm socket on the 1/4" drive side and a 12mm socket on the 3/8" drive side.3. A long-shaft JIS screwdriver.4. A JIS screwdriver bit (for that middle screw on the airbox).5. A 1/4" box-end wrench (for the screwdriver bit).
I've been storing the allen-keys and ratchet drive in the right fairing pocket.  I think I'm going to look for a way to store everything in a bag under the seat.  I think I have some Z-shaped phillips on one end, flathead on the other end screwdrivers.  I'm going to see if I can swap the bit and box-end for one of these.
Thursday evening, I began work on the bike:
1. Remove the gas tank, 2. Removed the engine heat shields.3. Reinstalled the battery.4. Started the engine to drain gas from the carburetors.
I was able to do all of this work with the same set of tools as before.
First, I checked the spark plug boots and found that each could click down one click on the spark plug threads.I held my thumb over the vacuum line for the fuel tap in order to assist the engine in running smoothly.I heard 2 things:1. The engine was again popping out the exhaust every so-often.2. Pfft-pfft-pfft-pfft-pfft
Looking for the source of the extra sound, I noted that the vacuum cap was missing from my #4 carburetor.  I put my finger over the port and the popping sound reduced, but didn't go completely away.  I covered the port with the vacuum line from carb 2 and the popping came back a little, but not as bad as before. While the engine was running, I used my finger to open and close the carburetor slides, ensuring that they all opened and closed smoothly.  I didn't rev the engine to make sure they opened or closed together, but I can work on that part.  After the engine ran out of fuel and stopped, I pulled the fuel lines off of the tees between the carburetors and cleaned the fuel screens.  They were nearly full.
Here's what I think was happening.
The vacuum cap was missing from carb 4, causing that cylinder to lean out.  I had needed to adjust the idle speed upwards because it was idling down too low due to the missing vacuum cap.  This extra idle speed may have conspired with non-optimal carb tuning for this circumstance to cause one or more of the other carburetors to run rich.  So, I had one carb running lean and the others running rich.  Either way, they were way out of balance.
I was mostly out of time, but I came back to the bike a bit later and dropped the float bowl off of carb #4.  I could do this with the carburetors mounted because when I had them off 2 years ago, I replaced the JIS screws with allen bolts. 
Backing up a bit - the first time I took my carburetors apart, I needed to do a thorough clean and replace of gaskets and O-rings on each carb.  This included the rubber nipples on the ends of the tees that go into each carburetor.  For this reason, I needed to dismount the carbs from th! eir mounting rails.  This forum has recommended that you don't dismount from the rails unless necessary, and if you do, be careful to catch and reinstall the springs and other parts that make up parts of the carburetor linkage.  I'll do a leak test on the carbs again before buttoning things back up.
Back to my work.  With the float bowl off, I could see a fine paste inside the bottom of the float bowl where the main jet draws gas, so I took a Q-tip and some carburetor cleaner to clean the float bowl.  
Next, I dropped the float assembly out the bottom, gently separated the floats from the body of the assembly so I could remove the needle.  Needle inspection revealed no obvious issues.
I took a flathead bit and my box-end wrench and removed the main jet to check it out.  No issues there.  If I had wanted to, I could have then removed the carb top, removed the emulsion tube, and ensured that it was also clean.  I didn't have any concerns about this part, so I left it.
I gently re-assembled the float assemblies, squirted the o-rings with WD-40 and re-installed the float assembly in the carburetor.
Finally, I bolted the float bowl back in-place.
Carburetor 4 complete.
I did carb 4 first because it's the easiest to access.  
Additional tools used.1. An individual allen-wrench to remove the float bowl screws.  This will need to be added to my kit.2. A flathead bit.  I think I can get away with the Z-shaped driver, but will need to confirm.3. An inspection mirror to look at the underside of the carburetor.
This was surprisingly easy and required only a few tools.  The airbox mod was by-far the biggest assistance in my efforts.
A note on my airbox mod.  Some people perform the mod and cover it with tape or some type of sealer.  I haven't done this.  I can see a line of dust on my air filter element where the mod was performed.  I wonder if it's time to clean the air filter element while I have it off.
Next steps:1. Remove and clean the float bowls and float assemblies on the other carbs.  Carb 1 will be the most difficult because of the idle speed adjuster.  I think I can manage this, though.2. Remove and inspect the spark plugs.  Replace any that appear to be fouled.3. Maybe clean the air filter.4. Perform a leak test on the carburetors.5. Reinstall the front airbox half on the carburetors to have the air horns in-place.6. Run the engine at varying speeds and confirm that the carburetor slides move together.
If all goes well, re-assemble the bike using the tools that will become my ride kit on Saturday and see how it shakes out.  Maybe go for a long ride on Sunday.
- Dave


      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 4:50 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Update:
On the ride home today, it smelled pretty rich.  I'm going to add another possibility to my list:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.4. Maybe one of the needle and seats is still stuck.  This is a big risk because if needle and seat and also petcock both get stuck open, my bike empties its fuel into the crankcase again.  This would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.
It! 's sounding like a carb teardown is in my near future.
- Dave

      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: Triumph Trophy Group Group <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 1:03 PM
 Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Hi everyone,
I'm looking for opinions on these symptoms:
My bike sat for about 3 weeks in January/February and I didn't drain the float bowls.  When I started riding again, I noticed a very rich exhaust smell when stopped at intersections.
Yesterday, I drained the float bowls, briefly primed the carbs, and started the engine.  As expected, it took a little while to get all 4 cylinders running, but not expected was a "thoom...thoom...thoom" popping sound from the exhaust.  The popping occurs at low engine speeds and tapers off or becomes unnoticeable as the engine speed increases.  I'm also getting a very occasional "pfft" backfire through one of the carbs at low engine speeds.  This is more concerning because I don't want to blow out an air filter.  I'm guessing that this happens during the overlap period of the valves if unburned exhaust is igniting in the header. I don't think it's running super-rich any longer, but I'll keep a nose out for this.
My bike did this for a few months after I first bought it, before it got both the #2 carb float and the petcock stuck in open positions and drained the fuel tank i! nto the crank! case and all over the ground.  Since that time, I've de-rusted the fuel tank and installed the missing inline filter screens in the tees between the carbs.
I recently added a USB power port/volt meter.  It feeds off of the input to the Johnson Jolt (original coil power feeds).  It reads 12.5V at idle with low-beams on and 13.8V at 1500RPM+.  I don't think this is a contributor to the problem, but wanted to note it.
My thoughts, and I hope for your comments:
1. Maybe I fouled a plug, causing intermittent firing.  If so, then I should be able to pull the plugs, find which one is fouled, and either clean it or swap it with a good one.  I think it's unlikely to resolve itself.2. Maybe whatever was blocking the needle and seat is now blocking the pilot jet, causing a lean drop-out and backfire.  this would mean that I need to yank the carbs again and do a teardown/cleanup on them.3. Maybe I bumped a plug wire when installing the USB power port.  This could cause intermittent firing.
Your thoughts?
Thanks! ,
Dave
 

     

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Re: Popping Exhaust

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Hi David,

 I think it's fantastic that you tackled this AND documented it in such detail for us.
 

 I bought a coupe of 3/8" drive Allen keys for my toolkit so I could more quickly get the fairing bolts out (quicker than the folding one). Might I also suggest an LED lamp on a headband for working after dark with both hands. You'll never break down on a sunny afternoon - always on a dark, rainy night!
 

 It's great you got to refresh your carbs. Reading between the lines, would the main culprits have been the vacuum cap and the coil end of the high tension plug wire being loose? Makes sense. Grey plugs are probably OK, white would not be.
 

 I have the same 2 tabs broken on mine! I still have the tabs. I also have a 60 watt soldering iron. Do you mean I can just melt them back together and they'll be strong enough not to break again???
 

 Cheers,
 Glenn
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Re: Popping Exhaust

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Hi Glenn,
I agree that the vacuum cap and the loose plug wire are the likely causes of the backfires.  
After my last update, I went for a ride.  I kept smelling either raw or poorly-burnt gasoline, so I stopped at one point to make sure there were no leaks.
I do note that I had some splash around the gas cap.  This could have possibly caused a raw gas smell.
I haven't ridden today, so I don't know for certain whether the rich smell has gone.
- Dave

      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 9:18 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
   
    Hi David,
I think it's fantastic that you tackled this AND documented it in such detail for us.
I bought a coupe of 3/8" drive Allen keys for my toolkit so I could more quickly get the fairing bolts out (quicker than the folding one). Might I also suggest an LED lamp on a headband for working after dark with both hands. You'll never break down on a sunny afternoon - always on a dark, rainy night!
It's great you got to refresh your carbs. Reading between the lines, would the main culprits have been the vacuum cap and the coil end of the high tension plug wire being loose? Makes sense. Grey plugs are probably OK, white would not be.
I have the same 2 tabs broken on mine! I still have the tabs. I also have a 60 watt soldering iron. Do you mean I can just melt them back together and they'll be strong enough not to break again???
Cheers,Glenn  #yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648 -- #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp #yiv4210352648hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp #yiv4210352648ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp .yiv4210352648ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp .yiv4210352648ad p {margin:0;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-mkp .yiv4210352648ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-sponsor #yiv4210352648ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-sponsor #yiv4210352648ygrp-lc #yiv4210352648hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv4210352648 #yiv4210352648ygrp-sponsor #yiv4210352648ygrp-lc .yiv4210352648ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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Re: Popping Exhaust

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Final update:
I rode the last 2 days.  Smooth, sweet, no toxic fumes.  
The raw gas smell must have been from the area around the gas cap.  I have a Clearview XL windscreen with PRVs (Pressure-Relief Vents).  My best guess is that they were effectively blowing the gasoline vapors from around my fuel tank filler up into my helmet.  Not nice, but much better if I don't spill.
- Dave

      From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2017 3:07 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
   
    Hi Glenn,
I agree that the vacuum cap and the loose plug wire are the likely causes of the backfires.  
After my last update, I went for a ride.  I kept smelling either raw or poorly-burnt gasoline, so I stopped at one point to make sure there were no leaks.
I do note that I had some splash around the gas cap.  This could have possibly caused a raw gas smell.
I haven't ridden today, so I don't know for certain whether the rich smell has gone.
- Dave

      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 9:18 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Hi David,
I think it's fantastic that you tackled this AND documented it in such detail for us.
I bought a coupe of 3/8" drive Allen keys for my toolkit so I could more quickly get the fairing bolts out (quicker than the folding one). Might I also suggest an LED lamp on a headband for working after dark with both hands. You'll never break down on a sunny afternoon - always on a dark, rainy night!
It's great you got to refresh your carbs. Reading between the lines, would the main culprits have been the vacuum cap and the coil end of the high tension plug wire being loose? Makes sense. Grey plugs are probably OK, white would not be.
I have the same 2 tabs broken on mine! I still have the tabs. I also have a 60 watt soldering iron. Do you mean I can just melt them back together and they'll be strong enough not to break again???
Cheers,Glenn  

     #yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293 -- #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp #yiv1379429293hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp #yiv1379429293ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp .yiv1379429293ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp .yiv1379429293ad p {margin:0;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-mkp .yiv1379429293ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-sponsor #yiv1379429293ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-sponsor #yiv1379429293ygrp-lc #yiv1379429293hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv1379429293 #yiv1379429293ygrp-sponsor #yiv1379429293ygrp-lc .yiv1379429293ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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Re: Popping Exhaust

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In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
I found this in my unsent email after I sent my final update.  I think it's worth adding:
----
Last update:
On the ride to work today, a little bit of rich smell while sitting at stoplights, but not on the road.  I'm going to chalk the raw gas smell up to fuel spilled around the filler while I was putting fuel that I had drained from the carbs back into the tank.  I need to look into a better fuel catch method.
So, fixes performed:
1. Vacuum cap on #4 carb - I went to the auto parts store, bought a blister pack of vacuum caps and another blister pack of small zip-ties.  I cinched the zip-tie lightly around the vacuum cap when installing it so that it would pinch the cap down, but not too much.2. Plug wire on #2 - I needed to plug it back into the coil because it had become loose.  I'm going to keep an eye on this one in-case it's a loose fit and keeps doing the same thing.3. Fairing tab - Quick work with a soldering iron on low heat to reattach the fairing tab that broke off when I leaned on the dash panel.4. Fuel selector knob - JB-Weld re-attach of broken D-housing pieces around the fuel selector D-shaft and JB-Weld fill of the gap that the pieces pushed into when they broke away from the housing. 

On the fuel selector knob, it is just me, or do the fuel taps for the Suzuki 93-98 GSX-R1100 look a lot like the Triumph fuel tap, maybe with different outlet directions?  Are the diaphragm rebuild kits the same?  If I could only swap the fuel outlets on one of those!


- Dave

   

   From: "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2017 3:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Hi Glenn,
I agree that the vacuum cap and the loose plug wire are the likely causes of the backfires.  
After my last update, I went for a ride.  I kept smelling either raw or poorly-burnt gasoline, so I stopped at one point to make sure there were no leaks.
I do note that I had some splash around the gas cap.  This could have possibly caused a raw gas smell.
I haven't ridden today, so I don't know for certain whether the rich smell has gone.
- Dave

      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2017 9:18 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Popping Exhaust
 
    Hi David,
I think it's fantastic that you tackled this AND documented it in such detail for us.
I bought a coupe of 3/8" drive Allen keys for my toolkit so I could more quickly get the fairing bolts out (quicker than the folding one). Might I also suggest an LED lamp on a headband for working after dark with both hands. You'll never break down on a sunny afternoon - always on a dark, rainy night!
It's great you got to refresh your carbs. Reading between the lines, would the main culprits have been the vacuum cap and the coil end of the high tension plug wire being loose? Makes sense. Grey plugs are probably OK, white would not be.
I have the same 2 tabs broken on mine! I still have the tabs. I also have a 60 watt soldering iron. Do you mean I can just melt them back together and they'll be strong enough not to break again???
Cheers,Glenn  

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