Chain life

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Chain life

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A couple of months ago, I started to notice a clicking sound for the first few minutes after I started riding.  Paying close attention, I found that the clicking was speed-sensitive, and it occurred less frequently than every tire rotation.
I zeroed-in on my chain.  My bike has just over 17K miles on it, so I'm assuming that this is the original chain. With the bike running cold at 35mph, the clicking was between 2x and 3x per second.  If I let off the throttle, the clicking went away.  If I pulled in the clutch, the clicking went away.  If I continued to ride, the clicking eventually went away.
I use DuPont Chain-Saver wax on my chain, and I lube the chain every weekend.  Before my commute went from 44 miles per day to 63 miles per day, this was within the chain maintenance schedule.  Now, I ride as much as 330 miles/week on my daily commute.  I assume that the Chain-Saver is better than just using oil, but I may be assuming wrong.
I've been paying attention to the chain play.  When following the maintenance procedures, the chain was within the play tolerances, but when I put the bike on its center stand and let it idle in 6th gear, the chain slack was flapping all over the place and loud.  I also found that when I rotated the wheel backward by hand (engine off, transmission in neutral), there was one pair of links that didn't completely straighten out, as if something was stuck.
I last cleaned the chain 2 years ago.  That's about 8000 miles longer than the 500 mile service interval, but I assumed that the service interval accounted for dirt attracted to the chain by oil, and my chain has stayed virtually dirt-free using the chain wax.
Anyways, I broke out the kerosene and cleaned the chain thoroughly.  Cleaning included the link surfaces to the outside, link surfaces to the inside, top and bottom, the rear sprocket, and flossing in-between every link roller with a rolled-up paper towel.  By the time I was done, I could run a paper towel across the chain and get only a few marks off of it from residual goo between the links.
I again ran the bike on the center stand in 6th gear in order to warm the chain up a bit and cook off some of the kerosene.  The chain slack was again very loud and flapped around quite a bit, so I decided that maybe an adjustment was in order.  I also paid attention to any side-to-side motion on the rear sprocket in order to further rule out the cush rubbers.  They seemed fine.
Following the adjustment procedure, I tightened the chain.  It only needed just a tiny amount of adjustment, maybe 1 - 2 mm of movement on the adjusters.  The eccentric adjuster marks are now just past the 2nd mark from the front on the swingarm.  I tested the chain again and it was loud, but the flapping was significantly reduced.  I then lubed the chain with chain-saver and got to try it out this morning.
Result: No ticking sound anymore.  Less chain lash when I let off the throttle.
So my question:  How worn is my chain?  Does a new chain adjust to the first set of marks?  Does a worn chain adjust to the last set of marks?  Is there a simple way to gauge chain wear?  I haven't tried to measure play every 5 links because it seems like an imprecise measurement.  I've read that many owners replace their chain every 15K to 25k miles or so.  I know that some group members with auto-oilers have chains that last much longer.  My rear sprocket looks good.  I don't see any hooking on the teeth.  I don't notice anything that looks bad when I shine a light from the rear wheel towards the front sprocket, but I haven't removed the front sprocket cover.
My 18K mile service is coming up in the next few weeks.  Should I include a new chain in that service?
Thanks,
Dave W.
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Re: Chain life

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Hi Dave,  Looks like you fixed the stuck links. Our chain slack decreases as you sit on the bike. Find someone who is about your weight, have them sit on the bike, and then you do the adjusting for chain slack.

 17,000 miles on a non Scottoiler chain is pretty good. I have the Scottoiler on both of my bikes. I've been getting 30,000 miles out of a chain in the past when I used to ride a lot. I probably have the oiler adjusted to put out too much fluid. The chain is always clean and the rear wheel is always messy. I turn the adjuster to full on when I ride in the rain, and then forget to turn it back after the rain.
 

 Here a link on if the chain is worn out.  Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSWFa5kP5pY 
 
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSWFa5kP5pY 
 
 Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSWFa5kP5pY A stretched chain will wear sprockets, here is a stretch test
 
 
 
 View on www.youtube.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSWFa5kP5pY 
 Preview by Yahoo
 
 

 Some people say to replace both sprockets with the chain. I don't. I wait until I see that the sprocket is worn.
 If you decide to get a new chain it is a 530. 110 links works on my 900's with  17 / 43 sprockets. Yours is a 1200 with different sprockets so buy it with 112 or 114 and cut off the extras. X rings are better than o-rings. Use the old chain to feed in the new chain make it easy to replace.
 Greg Andrews
 

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RE: Chain life

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Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
Bob Clark01 Sunset Red Trophy 120096 BRG Thunderbird 900


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/07/2016  11:27 AM  (GMT-05:00)
To: yahoogroups <[hidden email]>
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life














 

 



 


   
     
     
      A couple of months ago, I started to notice a clicking sound for the first few minutes after I started riding.  Paying close attention, I found that the clicking was speed-sensitive, and it occurred less frequently than every tire rotation.
I zeroed-in on my chain.  My bike has just over 17K miles on it, so I'm assuming that this is the original chain. With the bike running cold at 35mph, the clicking was between 2x and 3x per second.  If I let off the throttle, the clicking went away.  If I pulled in the clutch, the clicking went away.  If I continued to ride, the clicking eventually went away.
I use DuPont Chain-Saver wax on my chain, and I lube the chain every weekend.  Before my commute went from 44 miles per day to 63 miles per day, this was within the chain maintenance schedule.  Now, I ride as much as 330 miles/week on my daily commute.  I assume that the Chain-Saver is better than just using oil, but I may be assuming wrong.
I've been paying attention to the chain play.  When following the maintenance procedures, the chain was within the play tolerances, but when I put the bike on its center stand and let it idle in 6th gear, the chain slack was flapping all over the place and loud.  I also found that when I rotated the wheel backward by hand (engine off, transmission in neutral), there was one pair of links that didn't completely straighten out, as if something was stuck.
I last cleaned the chain 2 years ago.  That's about 8000 miles longer than the 500 mile service interval, but I assumed that the service interval accounted for dirt attracted to the chain by oil, and my chain has stayed virtually dirt-free using the chain wax.
Anyways, I broke out the kerosene and cleaned the chain thoroughly.  Cleaning included the link surfaces to the outside, link surfaces to the inside, top and bottom, the rear sprocket, and flossing in-between every link roller with a rolled-up paper towel.  By the time I was done, I could run a paper towel across the chain and get only a few marks off of it from residual goo between the links.
I again ran the bike on the center stand in 6th gear in order to warm the chain up a bit and cook off some of the kerosene.  The chain slack was again very loud and flapped around quite a bit, so I decided that maybe an adjustment was in order.  I also paid attention to any side-to-side motion on the rear sprocket in order to further rule out the cush rubbers.  They seemed fine.
Following the adjustment procedure, I tightened the chain.  It only needed just a tiny amount of adjustment, maybe 1 - 2 mm of movement on the adjusters.  The eccentric adjuster marks are now just past the 2nd mark from the front on the swingarm.  I tested the chain again and it was loud, but the flapping was significantly reduced.  I then lubed the chain with chain-saver and got to try it out this morning.
Result: No ticking sound anymore.  Less chain lash when I let off the throttle.
So my question:  How worn is my chain?  Does a new chain adjust to the first set of marks?  Does a worn chain adjust to the last set of marks?  Is there a simple way to gauge chain wear?  I haven't tried to measure play every 5 links because it seems like an imprecise measurement.  I've read that many owners replace their chain every 15K to 25k miles or so.  I know that some group members with auto-oilers have chains that last much longer.  My rear sprocket looks good.  I don't see any hooking on the teeth.  I don't notice anything that looks bad when I shine a light from the rear wheel towards the front sprocket, but I haven't removed the front sprocket cover.
My 18K mile service is coming up in the next few weeks.  Should I include a new chain in that service?
Thanks,
Dave W.

   
     

   
   

         
 
 

   
     

   
       
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RE: Chain life

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Wow! That's a lot of miles without an oiler. You must have kept it from riding in the rain. The rain just kills a chain. Greg
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Re: Chain life

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Thanks Greg,
That's a great video on how to check a chain, and it really helps to explain how a worn chain will wear a sprocket.
I'll perform that check the next chance I get and see what my results are.  It would be nice to prove that the lubricant I'm using is keeping my chain in good shape for longer than normal.  It would also be important to know if I have a chain that needs replacement.
- Dave

 
      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Monday, March 7, 2016 12:26 PM
 Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Re: Chain life
   
    Hi Dave, Looks like you fixed the stuck links. Our chain slack decreases as you sit on the bike. Find someone who is about your weight, have them sit on the bike, and then you do the adjusting for chain slack.
17,000 miles on a non Scottoiler chain is pretty good. I have the Scottoiler on both of my bikes. I've been getting 30,000 miles out of a chain in the past when I used to ride a lot. I probably have the oiler adjusted to put out too much fluid. The chain is always clean and the rear wheel is always messy. I turn the adjuster to full on when I ride in the rain, and then forget to turn it back after the rain.
Here a link on if the chain is worn out.  Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test
|    |
|    |        |    |       Easy Motorcycle Chain Stretch Test  A stretched chain will wear sprockets, here is a stretch test    |    |
|      View on www.youtube.com         |    Preview by Yahoo    |
|    |

 Some people say to replace both sprockets with the chain. I don't. I wait until I see that the sprocket is worn.If you decide to get a new chain it is a 530. 110 links works on my 900's with  17 / 43 sprockets. Yours is a 1200 with different sprockets so buy it with 112 or 114 and cut off the extras. X rings are better than o-rings. Use the old chain to feed in the new chain make it easy to replace.Greg Andrews   #yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685 -- #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp #yiv5933649685hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp #yiv5933649685ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp .yiv5933649685ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp .yiv5933649685ad p {margin:0;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-mkp .yiv5933649685ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-sponsor #yiv5933649685ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-sponsor #yiv5933649685ygrp-lc #yiv5933649685hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv5933649685 #yiv5933649685ygrp-sponsor 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Re: Chain life

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Thanks Bob,
I adjusted it on the center-stand rather than on the ground, but I also put it on the ground and ran the rear suspension through it's entire play in order to make sure the chain wasn't too tight.
It was really sloppy on the center stand before I made the adjustment.  Afterwards, it was still loose, but not super-sloppy.  I think the noise was more because at that moment, the chain was lubricated primarily with kerosene and not with something that has useable viscosity.
- Dave

 
      From: "APSLLP [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: TriumphTrophy <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 7, 2016 8:31 PM
 Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   
     Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
Bob Clark01 Sunset Red Trophy 120096 BRG Thunderbird 900


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/07/2016 11:27 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: yahoogroups <[hidden email]>
Subject: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life

    A couple of months ago, I started to notice a clicking sound for the first few minutes after I started riding.  Paying close attention, I found that the clicking was speed-sensitive, and it occurred less frequently than every tire rotation.
I zeroed-in on my chain.  My bike has just over 17K miles on it, so I'm assuming that this is the original chain. With the bike running cold at 35mph, the clicking was between 2x and 3x per second.  If I let off the throttle, the clicking went away.  If I pulled in the clutch, the clicking went away.  If I continued to ride, the clicking eventually went away.
I use DuPont Chain-Saver wax on my chain, and I lube the chain every weekend.  Before my commute went from 44 miles per day to 63 miles per day, this was within the chain maintenance schedule.  Now, I ride as much as 330 miles/week on my daily commute.  I assume that the Chain-Saver is better than just using oil, but I may be assuming wrong.
I've been paying attention to the chain play.  When following the maintenance procedures, the chain was within the play tolerances, but when I put the bike on its center stand and let it idle in 6th gear, the chain slack was flapping all over the place and loud.  I also found that when I rotated the wheel backward by hand (engine off, transmission in neutral), there was one pair of links that didn't completely straighten out, as if something was stuck.
I last cleaned the chain 2 years ago.  That's about 8000 miles longer than the 500 mile service interval, but I assumed that the service interval accounted for dirt attracted to the chain by oil, and my chain has stayed virtually dirt-free using the chain wax.
Anyways, I broke out the kerosene and cleaned the chain thoroughly.  Cleaning included the link surfaces to the outside, link surfaces to the inside, top and bottom, the rear sprocket, and flossing in-between every link roller with a rolled-up paper towel.  By the time I was done, I could run a paper towel across the chain and get only a few marks off of it from residual goo between the links.
I again ran the bike on the center stand in 6th gear in order to warm the chain up a bit and cook off some of the kerosene.  The chain slack was again very loud and flapped around quite a bit, so I decided that maybe an adjustment was in order.  I also paid attention to any side-to-side motion on the rear sprocket in order to further rule out the cush rubbers.  They seemed fine.
Following the adjustment procedure, I tightened the chain.  It only needed just a tiny amount of adjustment, maybe 1 - 2 mm of movement on the adjusters.  The eccentric adjuster marks are now just past the 2nd mark from the front on the swingarm.  I tested the chain again and it was loud, but the flapping was significantly reduced.  I then lubed the chain with chain-saver and got to try it out this morning.
Result: No ticking sound anymore.  Less chain lash when I let off the throttle.
So my question:  How worn is my chain?  Does a new chain adjust to the first set of marks?  Does a worn chain adjust to the last set of marks?  Is there a simple way to gauge chain wear?  I haven't tried to measure play every 5 links because it seems like an imprecise measurement.  I've read that many owners replace their chain every 15K to 25k miles or so.  I know that some group members with auto-oilers have chains that last much longer.  My rear sprocket looks good.  I don't see any hooking on the teeth.  I don't notice anything that looks bad when I shine a light from the rear wheel towards the front sprocket, but I haven't removed the front sprocket cover.
My 18K mile service is coming up in the next few weeks.  Should I include a new chain in that service?
Thanks,
Dave W.       Posted by: <[hidden email]>    
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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
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It can't be done right on the Centerstand.
Bob


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/08/2016  10:18 AM  (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life














 

 



 


   
     
     
      Thanks Bob,
I adjusted it on the center-stand rather than on the ground, but I also put it on the ground and ran the rear suspension through it's entire play in order to make sure the chain wasn't too tight.
It was really sloppy on the center stand before I made the adjustment.  Afterwards, it was still loose, but not super-sloppy.  I think the noise was more because at that moment, the chain was lubricated primarily with kerosene and not with something that has useable viscosity.
- Dave

       From: "APSLLP [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: TriumphTrophy <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Monday, March 7, 2016 8:31 PM
 Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   

 



 


   
     
     
     
   
Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed
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RE: Chain life

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I've tried to stay out of the rain.  Maybe a thousand miles of 24K was in the wet.  I also keep it clean and lubed.
It is time to do another valve adjustment and spark plugs.  Noticed she was slightly slower to start from cold on my trip to Daytona and back.  She still runs like a scalded cat
Also my tank sender isn't showing correctly. It's getting to be time for some wrenching.
Bob Clark


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/08/2016  10:08 AM  (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life


 



 


   
     
     
      Wow! That's a lot of miles without an oiler. You must have kept it from riding in the rain. The rain just kills a chain.Greg

   
     

   
   


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RE: Chain life

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Sorry, Bob, but the Triumph service manual (page 2.31) says (and I quote):
 
 "Chain Slack Inspection
 1. Set the motorcycle up on either the side or centre
 stand.
 
 2. Check the rear wheel alignment by reference to the
 rear wheel alignment instructions later in this
 section. Adjust if necessary.
 
 3. Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the
 chain has least slack. Measure the chain's vertical
 movement, mid-way between sprockets."
 

---In [hidden email], <apsllp@...> wrote :

 Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
 

 Bob Clark
 01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200
 96 BRG Thunderbird 900
 

 

 

 


 
 
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RE: Chain life

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I did it that way once,  and "if" it is done that way, when the bike is taken off the stand, the chain becomes tighter with load.  This does three things, A) stretches the chain, B) increases wear on the sprokets, C) loads the output shaft.
I learned this from a factory trained Triumph tech who showed me how the factory sets them up.  This after the tech determined mine was too tight following the process you quoted from the manual.
Triumph would LOVE to sell you replacement chains and sprockets.
Your results may vary.  I've got over 24K miles on the original chain and sprokets.  Not many on this list have gone so far.
Do as you wish with your machine.  I will continue to maintain mine as I see fit. I've also had less problems than most on this list with the BBBB.  
Still running original fuel lines, carbs not apart since new, original.chain and sprokets, the list goes on.
The Previously Molested 900 I inherited is a different story.
Bob ClarkUn-Molested 01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200
Jacksonville, FL


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/09/2016  11:48 AM  (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life














 

 



 


   
     
     
      Sorry, Bob, but the Triumph
service manual (page 2.31) says (and I quote):

 

"Chain
Slack Inspection

1. Set the motorcycle up on either the side or centre

stand.

 

2. Check the rear wheel alignment by reference to the

rear wheel alignment instructions later in this

section. Adjust if necessary.

 

3. Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the

chain has least slack. Measure the chain's vertical

movement, mid-way between sprockets."

---In [hidden email], <apsllp@...> wrote :

Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
Bob Clark01 Sunset Red Trophy 120096 BRG Thunderbird 900




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      List guidelines: PLEASE NO grumpy replies, or replies which merely add agreement to a previous post. If a reply is only relevant to the original writer, please REPLY DIRECT to that person. No SPAM, no adult-oriented topics, and no postings of a political or commercial nat
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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
My bike's preload is set where it will always rest at the top of its suspension travel when on either the center stand or on the kickstand.
I only wish that when I replaced my rear shock, I'd gone with the next heavier spring. 

- Dave


 
      From: "APSLLP [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: TriumphTrophy <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Wednesday, March 9, 2016 1:35 PM
 Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   
     I did it that way once,  and "if" it is done that way, when the bike is taken off the stand, the chain becomes tighter with load.  This does three things, A) stretches the chain, B) increases wear on the sprokets, C) loads the output shaft.
I learned this from a factory trained Triumph tech who showed me how the factory sets them up.  This after the tech determined mine was too tight following the process you quoted from the manual.
Triumph would LOVE to sell you replacement chains and sprockets.
Your results may vary.  I've got over 24K miles on the original chain and sprokets.  Not many on this list have gone so far.
Do as you wish with your machine.  I will continue to maintain mine as I see fit. I've also had less problems than most on this list with the BBBB.  
Still running original fuel lines, carbs not apart since new, original.chain and sprokets, the list goes on.
The Previously Molested 900 I inherited is a different story.
Bob ClarkUn-Molested 01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200
Jacksonville, FL


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/09/2016 11:48 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life

    Sorry, Bob, but the Triumphservice manual (page 2.31) says (and I quote):   "ChainSlack Inspection 1. Set the motorcycle up on either the side or centre stand.   2. Check the rear wheel alignment by reference to the rear wheel alignment instructions later in this section. Adjust if necessary.   3. Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain has least slack. Measure the chain's vertical movement, mid-way between sprockets."

---In [hidden email], <apsllp@...> wrote :

Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
Bob Clark01 Sunset Red Trophy 120096 BRG Thunderbird 900




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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Dave,

Its tricky to set but I'd steer clear of the center stand method. After
much trial and era. I decided upon setting it to where it feels correct at
the output shaft. In my case with tennis shoes on you can feel this
vibration via the foot peg. Basically start by setting it too tight. And
then back the tension down to where the output shaft rumble becomes barely
detectable. You will find a sweet spot where the deceleration lash becomes
minimal. And the rumble produced from being over tightened disappears. Just
my 2 cents. Hope this helps.

Best,
Samuel


My bike's preload is set where it will always rest at the top of its
suspension travel when on either the center stand or on the kickstand.

I only wish that when I replaced my rear shock, I'd gone with the next
heavier spring.

- Dave


------------------------------
*From:* "APSLLP [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
[hidden email]>
*To:* TriumphTrophy <[hidden email]>
*Sent:* Wednesday, March 9, 2016 1:35 PM
*Subject:* RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life


I did it that way once,  and "if" it is done that way, when the bike is
taken off the stand, the chain becomes tighter with load.  This does three
things, A) stretches the chain, B) increases wear on the sprokets, C) loads
the output shaft.

I learned this from a factory trained Triumph tech who showed me how the
factory sets them up.  This after the tech determined mine was too tight
following the process you quoted from the manual.

Triumph would LOVE to sell you replacement chains and sprockets.

Your results may vary.  I've got over 24K miles on the original chain and
sprokets.  Not many on this list have gone so far.

Do as you wish with your machine.  I will continue to maintain mine as I
see fit. I've also had less problems than most on this list with the BBBB.

Still running original fuel lines, carbs not apart since new,
original.chain and sprokets, the list goes on.

The Previously Molested 900 I inherited is a different story.

Bob Clark
Un-Molested 01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200

Jacksonville, FL



Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
[hidden email]>
Date: 03/09/2016 11:48 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life


Sorry, Bob, but the Triumph service manual (page 2.31) says (and I quote):

*"Chain Slack Inspection*
1. Set the motorcycle up on either the side or centre
stand.

2. Check the rear wheel alignment by reference to the
rear wheel alignment instructions later in this
section. Adjust if necessary.

3. Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the
chain has least slack. Measure the chain's vertical
movement, mid-way between sprockets."


---In [hidden email], <apsllp@...> wrote :

Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten,
keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really
loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both
wheels.

Bob Clark
01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200
96 BRG Thunderbird 900




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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
I agree with christate -  I have always used the method in the manual.
On the centre stand and adjust chain to 30 to 40 mm slack. Yes Bob, the
chain tightens when under load, that's why there is that slack. I got
37,000 km from my first chain and now have 38,000 on the second and it
still has a lot of life left in it. I used chain wax with the current
chain which probably explains the improved longevity.
I can't see a reputable manufacturer giving wrong information just to
increase their sales.
I do agree with Bob with his comment "Do as you wish with your machine.
  I will continue to maintain mine as I see fit. I've also had less
problems than most on this list with the BBBB."

Bill
98 BRG BBBB
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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
To further muddy the waters in this topic, I also follow the Triumph method and adjust the chain on the center stand. The chain and sprockets now have over 65,000 miles (yes, that is true) and, honestly, don't appear to need replacement.

Bear in mind, 95% of all mileage on my 900 is commuting at a steady speed on a relatively open freeway, so the chain is not subjected to much in the way of transient, varying loads. Additionally, I live in the central California region, so rain is only an issue, occasionally, 4 months of the year.

But it'll be a while before the chain needs any attention at all. The bike split its second head gasket in less than a year, so has been down for a few months. Looking for a low mileage donor engine, in the meantime I bought and am riding a Honda ST1300, pretty cool bike.

Later dudes.
Jack
Placerville, CA
Hangtown USA
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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Jack,

Sorry to hear that. Any idea as to the cause? Did the pump impeller fail or
something?

Samuel
On Mar 11, 2016 12:29 PM, "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> To further muddy the waters in this topic, I also follow the Triumph
> method and adjust the chain on the center stand. The chain and sprockets
> now have over 65,000 miles (yes, that is true) and, honestly, don't appear
> to need replacement.
>
> Bear in mind, 95% of all mileage on my 900 is commuting at a steady speed
> on a relatively open freeway, so the chain is not subjected to much in the
> way of transient, varying loads. Additionally, I live in the central
> California region, so rain is only an issue, occasionally, 4 months of the
> year.
>
> But it'll be a while before the chain needs any attention at all. The bike
> split its second head gasket in less than a year, so has been down for a
> few months. Looking for a low mileage donor engine, in the meantime I
> bought and am riding a Honda ST1300, pretty cool bike.
>
> Later dudes.
> Jack
> Placerville, CA
> Hangtown USA
>
>
>
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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
How big are the panniers on the ST1300 vs. those on your Trophy?  I noticed that it looked like they're too small to hold a full-face helmet, but I might have been seeing them wrong.  I thought the panniers on the ST1100 were much larger.
- Dave

 
      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Friday, March 11, 2016 1:29 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   
    To further muddy the waters in this topic, I also follow the Triumph method and adjust the chain on the center stand. The chain and sprockets now have over 65,000 miles (yes, that is true) and, honestly, don't appear to need replacement.

Bear in mind, 95% of all mileage on my 900 is commuting at a steady speed on a relatively open freeway, so the chain is not subjected to much in the way of transient, varying loads. Additionally, I live in the central California region, so rain is only an issue, occasionally, 4 months of the year.

But it'll be a while before the chain needs any attention at all. The bike split its second head gasket in less than a year, so has been down for a few months. Looking for a low mileage donor engine, in the meantime I bought and am riding a Honda ST1300, pretty cool bike.

Later dudes.
Jack
Placerville, CA
Hangtown USA  #yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298 -- #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp #yiv3214697298hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp #yiv3214697298ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp .yiv3214697298ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp .yiv3214697298ad p {margin:0;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-mkp .yiv3214697298ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-sponsor #yiv3214697298ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-sponsor #yiv3214697298ygrp-lc #yiv3214697298hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv3214697298 #yiv3214697298ygrp-sponsor #yiv3214697298ygrp-lc .yiv3214697298ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
I checked my chain tightness again, and made an adjustment according to the spec in the manual.  The manual recommends 25mm or so of travel (less for the Thunderbirds, more for the Trophy and other models).  The travel is measured by the amount of sag that happens between a taut chain and a loose chain when you rotate the rear wheel forwards and backwards to alternately tense and remove the slack from the lower loop of the chain.
At the time I cleaned the chain, I wasn't satisfied because the chain seemed way too sloppy.  I assumed that maybe, the instructions actually meant to tighten the chain so that at full slack, it was about 25mm from the bottom of the sag to the top of the slack when the chain is lifted.
After the discussion last week, with me riding the bike on Monday and Wednesday, I became concerned that I'd over-tightened the chain.  I didn't purchase the heavier spring for my Hagon shock, and I'm frequently bottoming-out the suspension, so if it was too tight, I was stretching the chain.
Bob's method of tightening the chain is definitely the most accurate that I can think of, but from what I can tell, it requires either: a) Someone else who is mechanically adept. or b) A mirror.  
A mirror was handy.
Here's what I found:
With the mirror in-place, when I bounce on my bike to bottom-out the rear suspension, the chain tension doesn't change very much at all.  I mean it barely changes in any way, shape, or form.  I suspect that Triumph's recommendation is fairly generous.
With the chain adjusted according to the manual's specs, it has lots of slop.  That sag doesn't go away when the suspension bottoms out.  It'll just make for lots of floppy chain under the bike, and therefore links bending in both directions unnecessarily.
I settled for a compromise:  The manual's adjustment would leave the chain adjuster in the mid-point.  My original adjustment left the chain close to the 2nd adjustment notch.  It's now midway between the midpoint and the first notch.  It still has a fair amount of sag, but not nearly as much as it did when I adjusted it according to the specs.  And, it doesn't bottom out.
I'll ride tomorrow and should be able to give an assessment of how it worked out.
- Dave



 
      From: "APSLLP [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: TriumphTrophy <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Wednesday, March 9, 2016 1:35 PM
 Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   
     I did it that way once,  and "if" it is done that way, when the bike is taken off the stand, the chain becomes tighter with load.  This does three things, A) stretches the chain, B) increases wear on the sprokets, C) loads the output shaft.
I learned this from a factory trained Triumph tech who showed me how the factory sets them up.  This after the tech determined mine was too tight following the process you quoted from the manual.
Triumph would LOVE to sell you replacement chains and sprockets.
Your results may vary.  I've got over 24K miles on the original chain and sprokets.  Not many on this list have gone so far.
Do as you wish with your machine.  I will continue to maintain mine as I see fit. I've also had less problems than most on this list with the BBBB.  
Still running original fuel lines, carbs not apart since new, original.chain and sprokets, the list goes on.
The Previously Molested 900 I inherited is a different story.
Bob ClarkUn-Molested 01 Sunset Red Trophy 1200
Jacksonville, FL


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/09/2016 11:48 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life

    Sorry, Bob, but the Triumphservice manual (page 2.31) says (and I quote):   "ChainSlack Inspection 1. Set the motorcycle up on either the side or centre stand.   2. Check the rear wheel alignment by reference to the rear wheel alignment instructions later in this section. Adjust if necessary.   3. Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain has least slack. Measure the chain's vertical movement, mid-way between sprockets."

---In [hidden email], <apsllp@...> wrote :

Mine has 24K mikes on the original and still going.  Don't overtighten, keep it clean and lubed. On the centerstand the chain will run really loose.  Adjust it per the TRIUMPH manual with the bike sitting on both wheels.
Bob Clark01 Sunset Red Trophy 120096 BRG Thunderbird 900




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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Dave,

 Well, that sure muddied the waters for me! I adjust mine on the centre stand, as well. I am only one guy, as a former colleague used to say when the boss wanted to much from us.
 

 I rotate the wheel back and forth to get no slack in the top run and the most slack in the bottom run. Then I set the bottom to 35mm halfway along the run from lifted all the way up to all the way down. It works for me. Too loose and your chain will ride on the plastic slider under the top run and wear it out.
 

 Right or wrong, but it works for me.
 

 Cheers,
 Glenn
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Re: Chain life

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Hi Glenn,
I think that maybe the instructions in the Trophy Service Manual are unclear.  Should we adjust only the slack dip or should we adjust the total slack (both sag and when lifting the bight of the chain to its maximum stretch upwards). (bight: noun - a free-hanging section of rope, as distinct from the rope's ends)
My reading of the service manual indicated to only measure the sag, but that's so much slack that it just doesn't make sense.  After watching the chain in a mirror, I think that the other reading might be the better way to adjust, and optimally, do it Bob's way if you have enough people to adjust the chain to a bottomed-out suspension.
- Dave

 
      From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 9:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   
    Hi Dave,
Well, that sure muddied the waters for me! I adjust mine on the centre stand, as well. I am only one guy, as a former colleague used to say when the boss wanted to much from us.
I rotate the wheel back and forth to get no slack in the top run and the most slack in the bottom run. Then I set the bottom to 35mm halfway along the run from lifted all the way up to all the way down. It works for me. Too loose and your chain will ride on the plastic slider under the top run and wear it out.
Right or wrong, but it works for me.
Cheers,Glenn  #yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383 -- #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp hr {border:1px solid #d8d8d8;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp #yiv5405964383hd {color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp #yiv5405964383ads {margin-bottom:10px;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp .yiv5405964383ad {padding:0 0;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp .yiv5405964383ad p {margin:0;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-mkp .yiv5405964383ad a {color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-sponsor #yiv5405964383ygrp-lc {font-family:Arial;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-sponsor #yiv5405964383ygrp-lc #yiv5405964383hd {margin:10px 0px;font-weight:700;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;}#yiv5405964383 #yiv5405964383ygrp-sponsor #yiv5405964383ygrp-lc .yiv5405964383ad {margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 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Re: Chain life

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list

   
Now Dave,  what you will find interesting is I do it without having anyone hold the bike up for me.
I have a Condor (PSTK6400) front wheel chock that holds the bike up for me.  It would be even easier on a table type bike lift.
Bob Clark


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
Date: 03/15/2016  1:25 PM  (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life


 



 


   
     
     
      Hi Glenn,
I think that maybe the instructions in the Trophy Service Manual are unclear.  Should we adjust only the slack dip or should we adjust the total slack (both sag and when lifting the bight of the chain to its maximum stretch upwards). (bight: noun - a free-hanging section of rope, as distinct from the rope's ends)
My reading of the service manual indicated to only measure the sag, but that's so much slack that it just doesn't make sense.  After watching the chain in a mirror, I think that the other reading might be the better way to adjust, and optimally, do it Bob's way if you have enough people to adjust the chain to a bottomed-out suspension.
- Dave

       From: "[hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Monday, March 14, 2016 9:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Chain life
   

 



 


   
     
     
      Hi Dave,
Well, that sure muddied the waters for me! I adjust mine on the centre stand, as well. I am only one guy, as a former colleague used to say when the boss wanted to much from us.
I rotate the wheel back and forth to get no slack in the top run and the most slack in the bottom run. Then I set the bottom to 35mm halfway along the run from lifted all the way up to all the way down. It works for me. Too loose and your chain will ride on the plastic slider under the top run and wear it out.
Right or wrong, but it works for me.
Cheers,Glenn

   
     

   
   




   

   
     

   
   


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