Burp

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Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at normal speeds.
-- 
I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.  
Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was completely full.
I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
--
So my question:
I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what I used in the previous coolant flush.
Thanks,
- Dave
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Dave,

When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water
jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck
that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which
motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but
didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master
rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along
with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the
thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two
similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no
big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.

Best,
Samuel
On Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
[TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33
> mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of
> where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was
> moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers
> were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
> lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
>
> After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because
> cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to
> give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were
> blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
>
> Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I
> looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I
> pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off
> the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made
> the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
> blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in
> traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over
> into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
>
> The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on
> the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant
> overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled
> down while riding at normal speeds.
>
> --
>
> I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and
> immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out
> quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4
> liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
> line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
>
> Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot,
> or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the
> deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far
> to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while
> holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the
> engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
>
> It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant
> tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and
> not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine
> and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited
> for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
>
> Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water
> can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for
> only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on
> its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to
> get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see
> if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed
> the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the
> radiator was completely full.
>
> I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
>
> --
>
> So my question:
>
> I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group
> have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the
> burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to
> have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot
> in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12
> years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
>
> Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used
> this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what
> I used in the previous coolant flush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
>
>
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Samuel,
I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything out of the block.
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
    Hi Dave,When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.Best,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

 

Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at normal speeds.
-- 
I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.  
Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was completely full.
I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
--
So my question:
I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what I used in the previous coolant flush.
Thanks,
- Dave


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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic. Its
pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug. It
allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket
bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on
the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.
On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
[TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> Hi Samuel,
>
> I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the
> coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or
> can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I
> wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush
> the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant
> overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything
> out of the block.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email]>
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water
> jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck
> that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which
> motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but
> didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master
> rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along
> with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the
> thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two
> similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
> other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no
> big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.
> Best,
> Samuel
> On Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33
> mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of
> where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was
> moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers
> were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
> lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
>
> After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because
> cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to
> give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were
> blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
>
> Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I
> looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I
> pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off
> the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made
> the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
> blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in
> traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over
> into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
>
> The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on
> the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant
> overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled
> down while riding at normal speeds.
>
> --
>
> I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and
> immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out
> quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4
> liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
> line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
>
> Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot,
> or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the
> deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far
> to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while
> holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the
> engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
>
> It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant
> tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and
> not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine
> and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited
> for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
>
> Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water
> can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for
> only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on
> its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to
> get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see
> if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed
> the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the
> radiator was completely full.
>
> I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
>
> --
>
> So my question:
>
> I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group
> have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the
> burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to
> have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot
> in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12
> years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
>
> Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used
> this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what
> I used in the previous coolant flush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Samuel,
I think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy 1200 engines from the left side. They show a single silver bolt head right where the bottom of the water jacket would be on the side of the engine.  No matching bolt on the right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water jacket.
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
    I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic. Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug. It allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

 

Hi Samuel,
I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything out of the block.
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    Hi Dave,When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.Best,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at normal speeds.
-- 
I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.  
Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was completely full.
I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
--
So my question:
I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what I used in the previous coolant flush.
Thanks,
- Dave


 

   


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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hey David,

That should be it. Once you get it all flushed out. Consider also
incorporating  a water wetter type product. These engines seem to run a tad
hot normally. Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load.
The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for decades.

Enjoy the ride,
Samuel
On Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
[TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> Hi Samuel,
>
> I think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy 1200 engines
> from the left side. They show a single silver bolt head right where the
> bottom of the water jacket would be on the side of the engine.  No matching
> bolt on the right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water jacket.
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email]>
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:20 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic.
> Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug.
> It allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket
> bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on
> the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.
> On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Samuel,
>
> I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the
> coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or
> can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I
> wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush
> the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant
> overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything
> out of the block.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email] >
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water
> jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck
> that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which
> motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but
> didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master
> rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along
> with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the
> thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two
> similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
> other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no
> big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.
> Best,
> Samuel
> On Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:
>
>
>
> Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33
> mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of
> where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was
> moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers
> were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
> lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
>
> After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because
> cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to
> give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were
> blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
>
> Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I
> looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I
> pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off
> the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made
> the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
> blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in
> traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over
> into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
>
> The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on
> the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant
> overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled
> down while riding at normal speeds.
>
> --
>
> I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and
> immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out
> quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4
> liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
> line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
>
> Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot,
> or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the
> deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far
> to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while
> holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the
> engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
>
> It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant
> tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and
> not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine
> and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited
> for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
>
> Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water
> can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for
> only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on
> its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to
> get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see
> if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed
> the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the
> radiator was completely full.
>
> I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
>
> --
>
> So my question:
>
> I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group
> have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the
> burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to
> have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot
> in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12
> years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
>
> Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used
> this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what
> I used in the previous coolant flush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hmmm,
Thoughts on water wetter...  I've read that it doesn't include any anti-corrosives.  Is this still true?
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 11:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
    Hey David,That should be it. Once you get it all flushed out. Consider also incorporating  a water wetter type product. These engines seem to run a tad hot normally. Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load. The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for decades. Enjoy the ride,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

 

Hi Samuel,
I think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy 1200 engines from the left side. They show a single silver bolt head right where the bottom of the water jacket would be on the side of the engine.  No matching bolt on the right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water jacket.
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic. Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug. It allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Hi Samuel,
I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything out of the block.
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    Hi Dave,When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.Best,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at normal speeds.
-- 
I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.  
Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was completely full.
I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
--
So my question:
I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what I used in the previous coolant flush.
Thanks,
- Dave


 

   


 

   


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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
Jhey David,

It wouldn't surprise me if it dosen't. But if your just adding a pint or
less I'm not sure if it matters. What coolant type are you using? I need to
make a decision on what type to use on my next flush.

Samuel
On Apr 10, 2017 4:05 PM, "David Webb [hidden email]
[TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

>
>
> Hmmm,
>
> Thoughts on water wetter...  I've read that it doesn't include any
> anti-corrosives.  Is this still true?
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email]>
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 8, 2017 11:22 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> Hey David,
> That should be it. Once you get it all flushed out. Consider also
> incorporating  a water wetter type product. These engines seem to run a tad
> hot normally. Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load.
> The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for decades.
> Enjoy the ride,
> Samuel
> On Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Samuel,
>
> I think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy 1200 engines
> from the left side. They show a single silver bolt head right where the
> bottom of the water jacket would be on the side of the engine.  No matching
> bolt on the right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water jacket.
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email] >
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:20 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic.
> Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug.
> It allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket
> bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on
> the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.
> On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Samuel,
>
> I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the
> coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or
> can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I
> wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush
> the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant
> overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything
> out of the block.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <
> [hidden email] >
> *To:* [hidden email]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
>
>
> Hi Dave,
> When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water
> jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck
> that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which
> motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but
> didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master
> rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along
> with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the
> thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two
> similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
> other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no
> big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.
> Best,
> Samuel
> On Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
> [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:
>
>
>
> Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33
> mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of
> where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was
> moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers
> were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
> lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
>
> After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because
> cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to
> give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were
> blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
>
> Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I
> looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I
> pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off
> the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made
> the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
> blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in
> traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over
> into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
>
> The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on
> the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant
> overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled
> down while riding at normal speeds.
>
> --
>
> I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and
> immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out
> quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4
> liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
> line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
>
> Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot,
> or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the
> deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far
> to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while
> holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the
> engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
>
> It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant
> tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and
> not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine
> and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited
> for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
>
> Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water
> can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for
> only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on
> its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to
> get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see
> if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed
> the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the
> radiator was completely full.
>
> I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
>
> --
>
> So my question:
>
> I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group
> have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the
> burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to
> have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot
> in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12
> years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
>
> Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used
> this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what
> I used in the previous coolant flush.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
Have you thought about the advantages of using a waterless coolant. It would eliminate the possibility of boiling around any localised hotspots.  

Regards
Ivor


--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/4/17, Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy] <[hidden email]> wrote:

 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 To: [hidden email]
 Date: Tuesday, 11 April, 2017, 0:32
 
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Jhey David,
 It wouldn't surprise me if it dosen't.
 But if your just adding a pint or less I'm not sure if
 it matters. What coolant type are you using? I need to make
 a decision on what type to use on my next flush.
 Samuel
 On Apr 10, 2017 4:05
 PM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
         
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hmmm,
 Thoughts
 on water wetter...  I've read that it doesn't
 include any anti-corrosives.  Is this still
 true?
 Thanks,
 - Dave
 
 
   
   From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
  To: [hidden email]
 
  Sent: Saturday, April
 8, 2017 11:22 AM
  Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Hey
 David,
 That should be it. Once you get it all
 flushed out. Consider also incorporating  a water wetter
 type product. These engines seem to run a tad hot normally.
 Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load.
 The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for
 decades.
 Enjoy the ride,
 
 Samuel
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
         
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hi
 Samuel,
 I
 think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy
 1200 engines from the left side. They show a single silver
 bolt head right where the bottom of the water jacket would
 be on the side of the engine.  No matching bolt on the
 right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water
 jacket.
 -
 Dave
 
 
   
   From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
  To: [hidden email]
 
  Sent: Thursday, April
 6, 2017 12:20 PM
  Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       I'll
 have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has
 a pic. Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side
 of the cylinder jug. It allows you to expell all the crud
 which gravitates down into the jacket bottom. By memory
 either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on the
 side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would
 make sense.
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
         
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hi
 Samuel,
 I
 only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I
 did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo
 that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the
 left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if
 there's a good way to snake something into the block and
 flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck
 out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water,
 but haven't tried to get anything out of the
 block.
 Thanks,
 -
 Dave
 
 
   
   From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
  To: [hidden email]
 
  Sent: Thursday, April
 6, 2017 9:37 AM
  Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
 
  
 
 
 
   
 
 
     
       
       
       Hi
 Dave,
 When
 you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower
 cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process.
 I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the
 same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a
 fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't
 really like the point at which it activated. So I installed
 a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof
 toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no
 longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point.
 But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts
 exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
 other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find
 oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you
 remove the right one.
 Best,
 
 Samuel
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
         
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Monday
 afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my
 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a
 few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut
 down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost
 lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were
 unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
 lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it
 carefully.
 After
 getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving
 because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other
 way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too
 far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was
 hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
 Suddenly,
 I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh. 
 I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from
 under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left,
 shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to
 cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and
 proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
 blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another
 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw
 steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the
 bike cool off again.
 The
 rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight
 burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled
 water to the coolant overflow container because it had been
 sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at
 normal speeds.
 -- 
 I
 did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the
 change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted
 that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the
 overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted
 afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
 line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled
 it.
 Fast-forward
 to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot
 spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling
 system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system
 with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I
 could muscle, before walking around the back while holding
 it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran
 the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very
 long.
 It
 seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled
 the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out
 the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent
 hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted
 the bike to the right again with the engine running and
 waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
  
 Knowing
 that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling
 water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I
 let this continue for only a short time and then shut the
 engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and
 refilling the overflow container when it started to get
 low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good
 measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the
 radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap
 to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was
 completely full.
 I
 rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
 --
 So
 my question:
 I
 know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of
 the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the
 right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve
 running the engine?  I just don't want to have an
 improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't
 have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the
 bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles
 on the odometer..
 Is
 there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant
 that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but
 it's a different brand than what I used in the previous
 coolant flush.
 Thanks,
 -
 Dave
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
     
 
     
     
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
     
 
     
     
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
     
 
     
     
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
     
     
 
     
     
 
 
 
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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Samuel,
Both times I've swapped coolant, I went to the Triumph dealer and bought what they were selling.  It was a different brand each time, but both were motorcycle-specific ethylene glycol mixtures.
BTW, while thinking about your comments regarding the cylinder drain plug, I noted that the water that spurted out of my overflow tank had oxidized iron dust in it.  This would be expected if the source of the boiling in my engine was from inside a clump of debris that had settled somewhere in the engine.
I think you're probably right about needing to pull that plug and flush the cooling system again sometime soon.
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 7:38 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
    Jhey David,It wouldn't surprise me if it dosen't. But if your just adding a pint or less I'm not sure if it matters. What coolant type are you using? I need to make a decision on what type to use on my next flush. SamuelOn Apr 10, 2017 4:05 PM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]> wrote:

 

Hmmm,
Thoughts on water wetter...  I've read that it doesn't include any anti-corrosives.  Is this still true?
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 11:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    Hey David,That should be it. Once you get it all flushed out. Consider also incorporating  a water wetter type product. These engines seem to run a tad hot normally. Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load. The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for decades. Enjoy the ride,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Hi Samuel,
I think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy 1200 engines from the left side. They show a single silver bolt head right where the bottom of the water jacket would be on the side of the engine.  No matching bolt on the right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water jacket.
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 12:20 PM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    I'll have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has a pic. Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side of the cylinder jug. It allows you to expell all the crud which gravitates down into the jacket bottom. By memory either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on the side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would make sense.On Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Hi Samuel,
I only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if there's a good way to snake something into the block and flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water, but haven't tried to get anything out of the block.
Thanks,
- Dave

      From: "Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] >
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 9:37 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
    Hi Dave,When you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process. I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't really like the point at which it activated. So I installed a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point. But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you remove the right one.Best,
SamuelOn Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email] > wrote:

 

Monday afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it carefully.
After getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
Suddenly, I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh.  I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left, shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the bike cool off again.
The rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled water to the coolant overflow container because it had been sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at normal speeds.
-- 
I did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled it.
Fast-forward to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I could muscle, before walking around the back while holding it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very long.
It seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted the bike to the right again with the engine running and waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.  
Knowing that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I let this continue for only a short time and then shut the engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and refilling the overflow container when it started to get low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was completely full.
I rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
--
So my question:
I know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve running the engine?  I just don't want to have an improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles on the odometer..
Is there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but it's a different brand than what I used in the previous coolant flush.
Thanks,
- Dave


 

   


 

   


 

   


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Re: Burp

Triumph Trophy mailing list
In reply to this post by Triumph Trophy mailing list
Hi Ivor,
After reading your post, I looked into waterless coolants.  I see Evans coolant.  I also saw Engine Ice in the search, but this appears to be a premix with water.  From my memory, my bike currently has Engine Ice in it.
The waterless coolant threads that I read had a number of questions about how to use it, whether to change coolant fan switches, etc.  It looks like you're supposed to use Evans flush before using Evans coolant.
I think I'd like to see if I can get any sludge out of the cylinder water jacket and maybe also install a temperature gauge before switching to a different type of coolant.  Even thought the current coolant has a risk of boiling, the boiling that I experienced may have been caused by un-burped air in the cooling system.  Once both of those are handled, a waterless coolant sounds like a potentially good idea.
- Dave

      From: "IVOR COLLINS [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2017 7:04 AM
 Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
   
    Have you thought about the advantages of using a waterless coolant. It would eliminate the possibility of boiling around any localised hotspots.

Regards
Ivor

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 11/4/17, Samuel Crider [hidden email] [TriumphTrophy] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Subject: Re: [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 To: [hidden email]
 Date: Tuesday, 11 April, 2017, 0:32
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jhey David,
 It wouldn't surprise me if it dosen't.
 But if your just adding a pint or less I'm not sure if
 it matters. What coolant type are you using? I need to make
 a decision on what type to use on my next flush.
 Samuel
 On Apr 10, 2017 4:05
 PM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]>
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hmmm,
 Thoughts
 on water wetter...  I've read that it doesn't
 include any anti-corrosives.  Is this still
 true?
 Thanks,
 - Dave
 
 
 
 From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
 To: [hidden email]
 
 Sent: Saturday, April
 8, 2017 11:22 AM
 Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hey
 David,
 That should be it. Once you get it all
 flushed out. Consider also incorporating  a water wetter
 type product. These engines seem to run a tad hot normally.
 Add to that living in the humid south adds to the heat load.
 The stuff does slightly help. I used it in diesels for
 decades.
 Enjoy the ride,
 
 Samuel
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 11:38 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hi
 Samuel,
 I
 think I found it.  There are some photos on ebay of Trophy
 1200 engines from the left side. They show a single silver
 bolt head right where the bottom of the water jacket would
 be on the side of the engine.  No matching bolt on the
 right side, but that's the timing chain and not a water
 jacket.
 -
 Dave
 
 
 
 From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
 To: [hidden email]
 
 Sent: Thursday, April
 6, 2017 12:20 PM
 Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I'll
 have a look when I get home. Perhaps the service manual has
 a pic. Its pretty easy to locate. Just go to the bottom side
 of the cylinder jug. It allows you to expell all the crud
 which gravitates down into the jacket bottom. By memory
 either a 10mm or 8mm hex head. I could also be wrong on the
 side. But I seem to remember the kickstand side. Which would
 make sense.
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 9:57 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hi
 Samuel,
 I
 only removed the drain bolt on the water pump housing when I
 did the coolant flushes.  Do you by chance have a photo
 that points to that bolt or can you describe where on the
 left side of the engine it's located?  I wonder if
 there's a good way to snake something into the block and
 flush the muck out effectively I was able to flush the muck
 out of my coolant overflow tank with a bit of forced water,
 but haven't tried to get anything out of the
 block.
 Thanks,
 -
 Dave
 
 
 
 From: "Samuel
 Crider [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 >
 To: [hidden email]
 
 Sent: Thursday, April
 6, 2017 9:37 AM
 Subject: Re:
 [TriumphTrophy] Burp
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Hi
 Dave,
 When
 you flushed her out did you remove the left side lower
 cylinder water jacket drain bolt? If not repeat the process.
 I was stunned at the muck that oozed out. Anyway I had the
 same symptoms before. All of which motivated me to install a
 fan bypass switch. I replaced the thermostat but didn't
 really like the point at which it activated. So I installed
 a master rocker in the left glove box. And a weatherproof
 toggle above that along with a temperature guage. Now I no
 longer allow her to get to the thermostatic switch point.
 But make sure you drain that jacket drain. Two similar bolts
 exist on that left side. One is an oil galley access and the
 other the jacket drain. If you remove the wrong one and find
 oil. Its no big deal just replace it. You will know when you
 remove the right one.
 Best,
 
 Samuel
 On
 Apr 6, 2017 8:15 AM, "David Webb [hidden email]
 [TriumphTrophy]" <[hidden email]
 > wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Monday
 afternoon, I was riding home from work on the tail end of my
 33 mile commute.  There was some type of issue on US-19 a
 few miles south of where I live, and all lanes were shut
 down.  I noted that some traffic was moving in the leftmost
 lane, so I slowly made my way over.  Car drivers were
 unusually aggressive in the stop-and-go traffic (with no
 lane-splitting in Florida), so I needed to do it
 carefully.
 After
 getting into the left lane, I noted that traffic was moving
 because cars were making U-turns and heading back the other
 way.  I resolved to give it a few minutes because I was too
 far away to see why the lanes were blocked, and I was
 hopeful that soon the highway would open up again.
 Suddenly,
 I felt a burning pain on the back of my right inner thigh. 
 I looked down to see steam and hot water spurting out from
 under my seat. I pulled into a striped-off area to the left,
 shut off the engine, took off the seat, and waited for it to
 cool down.  After about 10 minutes, I made the u-turn and
 proceeded to another artery street to take me home past the
 blockage.  This street was also clogged, and after another
 20 minutes in traffic, I could smell antifreeze and saw
 steam again, so I pulled over into a driveway and let the
 bike cool off again.
 The
 rest of my ride was uneventful, other than feeling a slight
 burn on the back of my leg.  Once home, I added distilled
 water to the coolant overflow container because it had been
 sucked dry once the engine cooled down while riding at
 normal speeds.
 -- 
 I
 did a coolant change during my 18K service. After the
 change, and immediately after my first ride to work, I noted
 that the engine spat out quite a bit of water from the
 overflow, and onto the ground, maybe 1/4 liter.  I noted
 afterwards that the coolant tank seemed to be at its fill
 line, so I assumed that I'd just overfilled
 it.
 Fast-forward
 to this week.  It seems that either my engine has a hot
 spot, or I didn't do a good job of burping the cooling
 system.  When I did the deed, I filled the cooling system
 with water, then tilted the bike as far to the right as I
 could muscle, before walking around the back while holding
 it upright and putting it on its center stand.  I also ran
 the engine with the radiator cap off, but not for very
 long.
 It
 seems that I needed to do more then.  This time, I refilled
 the coolant tank, left the cap open to let gases vent out
 the left side of the tank and not just drip out the vent
 hole on the right.  I then started the engine and tilted
 the bike to the right again with the engine running and
 waited for bubbles to start.  They started and kept going.
  
 Knowing
 that once water is boiling, the surface under the boiling
 water can get hotter and hotter and keep the boil going, I
 let this continue for only a short time and then shut the
 engine off, putting the bike back on its center stand, and
 refilling the overflow container when it started to get
 low.  I then tilted the bike again to the right for good
 measure to see if I could get any gases to pool under the
 radiator cap, and then removed the fairing and radiator cap
 to check again.  No air was present - the radiator was
 completely full.
 I
 rode the bike on Wednesday without issue.
 --
 So
 my question:
 I
 know that there is a defined burping procedure.  Members of
 the group have instructed me to tilt the bike as far to the
 right as I can.  Does the burping procedure also involve
 running the engine?  I just don't want to have an
 improperly burped bike,and I'm hoping that I don't
 have a weak spot in the cooling system due to neglect to the
 bike before I bought it at 12 years old, with only 7K miles
 on the odometer..
 Is
 there something I missed?  Should I suspect the coolant
 that I used this time (It's a motorcycle coolant, but
 it's a different brand than what I used in the previous
 coolant flush.
 Thanks,
 -
 Dave
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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